The Ultimate Sustainability Guide To Cotton vs Organic Cotton

This blog posts breaks down the environmental, social, quality, and economic differences between conventional and organic cotton, to help you make more sustainable choices!

Cotton has been loved for its softness and breathability since ancient civilizations in India and Egypt.¹ It is still one of the biggest fabrics in the textile industry, used from clothing to household products. Cotton as a crop has a huge economic impact, supporting over 250 million people’s livelihoods and makes up half of the world’s textile market.¹

As a natural fibre, it is usually seen as a more sustainable option than synthetic fibres like polyester and nylon, which are based on fossil fuels and contain microplastics. But unfortunately, just because something is natural doesn’t always mean it is created in an environmentally friendly way.

Cotton is actually known as “the world’s dirtiest crop”, because it uses more chemical pesticides than any other major crop.² This not only contaminates the environment but also causes health hazards to farmers and workers! The industry also many has issues like labour violations, use of genetically modified seeds, and excessive water use.³

That doesn’t mean we should give up on cotton altogether. It’s a material I genuinely love wearing and using, and when made responsibly, it can be part of a more sustainable future. The key is understanding the difference between conventional and organic cotton, so you can make choices that align with sustainable living.

What is Conventional Cotton?

Do to the high demand for cotton, conventional cotton farming is designed to maximise yield and efficiency. This means that they use a lot of synthetic pesticides and fertilizers, which help control pests and promote plant growth. Cotton farming uses 6% of the world’s pesticides and 16% of its insecticides, even though it covers only 2.4% of the world’s farmed land.²

It is also dependent on genetically modified (GM) seeds, which are engineered to resist pests and tolerate the harsh chemicals. This can help to reduce losses and increase the size of the crops, but it also increases dependence on chemicals. Cotton farming also uses a lot of water resources; it takes about 8000 litres of water to manufacture a single cotton t-shirt, and which is very challenging in water stressed regions.⁴

The use of synthetic fertilizers and pesticides create a lot of negative environmental and health impacts. These synthetic chemicals lead to soil degradation and water pollution, affecting local ecosystems and water supplies. Farmers’ health can be affected by exposure to these chemicals, sometimes leading to chronic illnesses and acute poisoning.²

The production of agricultural chemicals is also very energy-intensive, releasing significant amounts of greenhouse gas emissions into the atmosphere. The carbon footprint of a cotton garment ranges from 3 to 62 kilograms of CO2, and the cotton industry generates about 220 million tones of CO2 per year.¹

What is Organic Cotton?

So, conventionally grown cotton clearly has a lot of issues. In contrast, organic cotton is grown as the name suggests: using natural methods.

Organic cotton is grown using environmentally friendly methods that aim to protect soil health and reduce pollution. It uses natural fertilisers and pesticides like compost, and manure to enrich the soil and control pests without harmful chemicals.³

It strictly avoids genetically modified organisms (GMs), instead using normal seeds bred through natural selection and traditional methods.⁵ They also use techniques like crop rotation and soil conservation techniques, like cover cropping and reduced tillage, to maintain soil fertility and reduce pests and disease.⁵

In short, organic farming grows crops as nature intended, using natural inputs and protecting the health of the soil.

To classify something as organic, it needs to achieve a certification to prove it follows organic farming principles throughout the production process. The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is a big certification that covers the entire production process, from harvesting to manufacturing.⁶

There is also the Organic Content Standard (OCS), which verifies the amount of organic material in a final product, tracking the raw materials from the source to the end product.⁶ These certifications really important to help identify truly sustainable products and avoid greenwashing.

12+ Benefits of Organic Cotton Over Conventional Cotton

Environmental Benefits of Organic Cotton

One of the most significant environmental benefits of organic cotton is the reduction in pesticide and fertiliser use. Unlike conventional cotton, organic farming relies on natural alternatives like compost and manure, and regenerative farming practices like co-planting, crop rotation, and insect traps.³

This approach protects soil health by maintaining organic matter and biodiversity, resulting in richer and more diverse ecosystems. This includes beneficial insects and microorganisms which help control pests naturally.³

Eliminating chemicals can reduce soil erosion by 26%, improving the health and longevity of the land.⁴ Organic standards also include strict biodegradability and toxicity criteria for textile inks and dyes, which protects freshwater safety. This is important because 20% of freshwater pollution is caused by chemical treatment and dyeing!⁷

Organic cotton is also much less water intensive than conventional cotton, which uses about 10,000 litres of water per kilogram.³ Organic farming uses less water because avoiding chemicals results in healthier soil and better soil water retention. Simply put, fewer inputs mean less water required by the crops.⁴ Organic farming practices also focus more on using rain-fed irrigation systems and other low impact water sources. 80% of organic cotton is rain-fed.⁸

When considering the entire life cycle, a conventional cotton t-shirt requires 8,206 litres of water, while an organic cotton t-shirt requires only 704 litres (a 91% reduction!).⁴

Organic farming also has lower greenhouse gas emissions. The production and application of synthetic fertilisers and pesticides in conventional farming are energy-intensive processes that release considerable amounts of carbon emissions.¹ By eliminating chemicals, organic cotton farming reduces energy demands by 62% and its carbon footprint by 46%.⁴ Additionally, eliminating chemicals improves the ability of soil to sequester carbon, supported other organic practices like crop rotation and reduced tillage.¹

Social Benefits of Organic Cotton

Organic farming significantly improves health outcomes for farmers and their communities by reducing exposure to harmful chemicals.

Synthetic chemicals used in conventional cotton are linked to severe health issues, including cancer, neurological disorders, and reproductive problems. Every year, up to 77 million cotton workers suffer poisoning from pesticides, and around 200,000 people die from pesticide exposure.^{2, 7} Those that survive acute pesticide poisoning often suffer life-long from chronic health issues, making them unable to work.²

Organic farming eliminates these toxic chemicals, leading to healthier working conditions and fewer pesticide-related illnesses among farmers.

Better working conditions and fair trade practices are also a big part of organic farming. Most organic cotton initiatives focus on fair trade principles, ensuring that farmers get fair wages and work in safe environments.⁴

Organic cotton also empowers farmers by providing control over seed choices and quality, unlike expensive genetically modified seeds who dominate the Indian market by having forced out non-GM options.⁷ Organic seeds allow farmers to reduce reliance on expensive chemicals and allows them to work within their limits and with their environment.

Moreover, organic farming improves financial resilience by enabling farmers to grow other crops for food and income, since crop diversification is a key aspect of organic farming, unlike conventional cotton which is grown as a monocrop.⁷

Quality and Performance of Organic Cotton

Organic cotton is not just better for the planet and workers, it is also better for the wearer.

Organic cotton often has better quality and durability compared to conventional cotton. Studies show that organic fibres are usually longer and finer, which makes the yarn stronger and more even.⁹

Organic cotton also often falls within the premium range of micronaire values, a measure of fibre fineness and maturity, which results in finer and stronger yarns and softer clothing .⁹ This is because of the hand-picking and careful handling of organic cotton, and avoiding the chemicals that weaken fibres in conventional cotton. This means that organic fabrics can endure more washes and wear, making them last longer and more sustainable.³

Organic fabrics are also gentler on the skin, because traces of chemicals can sometimes found in conventional cotton fabrics.⁸ These residues can cause skin irritation, redness, and allergic reactions.¹⁰ Additionally, harsh processing methods and chemicals can strip cotton of its natural oils, making it less breathable and more irritating.¹⁰ In contrast, since organic cotton is made without chemicals, it is naturally hypoallergenic, more breathable, and safer for sensitive skin.³

Economic Considerations

I know what you’re thinking: that all sounds great, but the main problem is that organic cotton is too expensive. And it is true that it costs a bit more, but there are good reasons for that.

Organic certification processes involves rigorous inspections and compliance with strict standards, all of which come with costs.³ Additionally, organic farming methods are more labour-intensive, involving practices like natural pest management and crop rotation, and require fair wages for farmers and garment workers.⁸ Organic farms also often yield less cotton per acre since they don’t use genetically modified seeds designed for higher production.³

However, take a step back and consider the long-term economic benefits of organic cotton. While the initial cost can be higher, organic products are usually more durable, so they need replacing less often. And prices are becoming more competitive since there is growing demand for sustainable, ethically produced goods.¹⁰

It’s also important to remember that when you buy a cheap cotton garment, it means that someone else is paying for it – namely the exploited farmers and garment workers, and the degraded environment.⁷

Conclusion

I know that was quite a lengthy post, but I hope you took something valuable from it.

In summary, organic cotton has significant advantages compared to conventional cotton for the environment, health, and society.

Conventional cotton relies on harmful chemicals that contribute to environmental degradation and pose health risks to both farmers and consumers. While cheap conventional cotton might seem like a bargain, the true cost is paid by exploited farmers, garment workers, and the planet.

On the other hand, organic cotton is grown using sustainable practices that preserve soil health, reduce water usage, and lower carbon emissions, all while ensuring safer working conditions and producing higher-quality, longer-lasting garments.

When choosing cotton products, it’s important look out for organic certifications, like GOTS-certified items. Without certification, there’s a risk that harsh chemicals were still used in dyeing and processing, undermining the efforts of organic farming.

By choosing organic cotton, you’re contributing to a healthier planet and fairer treatment for all involved in the cotton industry.

Sources:

1. Is Cotton Bad for the Environment?, GreenMatch
2. The casualties of cotton, Environmental Justice Foundation
3. Why Organic Cotton: Exploring Regular Cotton vs Organic Cotton, Sustainable Review
4. Quick Guide to Organic Cotton, Textile Exchange
5. Cotton Vs Organic Cotton: Find the Key Differences, Textile Apex
6. How organic cotton certification works, Textile Exchange
7. Have You Cottoned On Yet? The Organic Cotton Initiative, Soil Association
8. Environmental Impact of Cotton from Growing, Farming & Consuming, Trvst
9. Organic Cotton: Technological and Environmental Aspects, Radostina A. Angelova
10. Organic Cotton: Good For the Planet Great for Your Skin, Medium